Gilet and Waistcoat Questions, Answered

Weskit makes waistcoats (or gilets) for men and women. They are cut, made and finished by hand in London by expert tailors. We offer two cuts in more than 300 different outers with an extensive choice of linings. Here are the questions we are asked most often, from the difference between a gilet and a waistcoat to how to order a bespoke gilet.

Gilet or waistcoat?

What is the difference between a gilet and a waistcoat?

None whatsoever. Gilet is the French word for waistcoat; waistcoat is the English.

“Waistcoat” is the traditional tailoring word, while “gilet” is the term recently adopted by marketeers to distinguish the day-to-day cut from the formal morning suit or three-piece suit waistcoat. Waistcoats, which are sometimes called a sleeveless jacket, come in different styles and can be worn as part of a suit, or over shirts, jumpers or dresses.

What is different about Weskit waistcoats or gilets?

The quality of the textiles we offer, the care we have taken in developing our cuts and the fantastic workmanship that goes into making each waistcoat. With the exception of what you should expect from a bespoke piece tailored specifically for you on Savile Row, our waistcoats are, we believe, the best on the market.

Why haven’t I heard about Weskit before?

Firstly, because we invest more in our products than in our marketing – something that is oddly a rarity in the clothing business. Secondly, we are a family-owned business and rather than chasing growth, we are happy to grow incrementally – and largely through word of mouth.

Is Weskit a luxury brand?

Weskit prides itself on what it makes and how it makes it. We make here and we use high quality textiles – many of which are luxurious in feel and composition. If you are looking for a luxury gilet, we think it is a luxury to be able to have something made exactly as you want it, and a luxury to know that what you have bought has been well made, fairly made and can be repaired. Weskit does not offer garments with any external branding.

Why isn’t your branding visible?

We do not believe external branding on garments adds anything to them. Luxury doesn’t shout.

What should I look for in a good British gilet?

If you are choosing the best gilet for you, whether a men’s or women’s gilet, look at a few things: how it is made, how it is cut, its finish, its fabric, its fit and its lining. A well-made gilet should feel considered inside as well as out; it should have structure and it should last for years with proper care. These are the things we put into every Weskit gilet.

Is a gilet the same as a bodywarmer (or body warmer)?

A gilet warms your body, but what tends to be marketed as a bodywarmer, also written body warmer, is usually a padded or quilted outdoor garment.

Our gilets are tailored from tweed, flannel, linen, corduroy, velvet, moleskin and silk matka rather than padded, so they add a smart layer and warmth without the bulk. We do not make quilted, puffer, fleece, waxed or shearling gilets. If you want a tailored gilet, country gilet or shooting gilet look in fine British cloth, that is what we do.

Why is Weskit called Weskit?

“Weskit” is an old variant spelling of waistcoat, still found in the Oxford English Dictionary. It seemed the right name for a maker that started with waistcoats.

British made and handmade

Are Weskit gilets really made in Britain?

Yes. Every single Weskit waistcoat or gilet is a British made gilet – a UK made gilet, made in England – cut, made and finished by hand in London. Without exception. Our makers are Musa Apparel in Upton Park. We are members of Made in Britain and UKFT (UK Fashion & Textile Association).

Where does your cloth come from?

We buy from British mills and merchants, including Fox Brothers in Somerset, AW Hainsworth in Yorkshire, Carloway Mill for Harris Tweed, and Lovat Mill in Hawick. We buy British-woven tweeds and flannels from merchants in Huddersfield. Our linen is Irish linen from Baird McNutt in County Antrim. We source our silk matka, corduroy, velvet, moleskin and canvas in the UK – however, it is sadly not woven here.

Why should I choose a handmade gilet over a high street one?

In short: quality and choice. A handmade gilet is cut, made and finished carefully – a process that requires skill and care and can ensure the best finish. Garments that are mass produced are cut to maximise garments per metre, to minimise the processes and time involved.

By making by hand rather than mass producing, we can offer you a wealth of choice when it comes to outers and linings, an almost infinite choice when you add the two cuts, five collars and seven button options. It also means we can adjust the fit to best suit you – lengthening, shortening, letting out or taking in from our standard sizes.

Mass production also invariably involves a lot more waste as over-production is rife.

Cloth & Cut

Do you make tweed gilets?

Yes. Our tweed gilets and waistcoats, including our Harris Tweed gilet, are exclusively made from British tweeds including Harris Tweed, Lovat tweed from Hawick and Yorkshire tweed. A tweed gilet is a classic country gilet and works equally well with jeans and boots or with a tailored shirt. Our finer tweeds also work well in Town.

Do you make flannel gilets?

Yes, Weskit makes pure merino wool and cashmere-lambswool mix gilets in a range of colours and patterns. These are ideal as city or evening wear.

Do you make gilets suitable for summer wear?

Yes, we make waistcoats in lighter fabrics such as Irish linen and silk matka. As a general guide, tweed and flannel suit autumn and winter, while linen and silk matka are lighter for spring and summer.

What collar styles are available?

Our waistcoats are available to order with Nehru, Low Nehru, Mandarin, T-Shirt or Cut-Away collars. A Nehru gilet has a square, upright look, the Low Nehru is a lower version of the same, the Mandarin has a curved edge, the Cut-Away a slanted edge and the T-Shirt has no collar.

Flannel and tweed gilets in depth

What is a flannel gilet?

Flannel is a soft, lightly brushed woollen cloth with a smooth, matt surface and a warm, comfortable handle. A flannel gilet is a sophisticated choice: it drapes well, feels gentle against a shirt or knit, and suits plain colours and subtle checks. Ours are cut from British flannel woven by Fox Brothers in Somerset and AW Hainsworth in Yorkshire; we offer pure merino and cashmere-lambswool flannels, in plains and classic patterns such as the gunclub check.

What is a tweed gilet?

Tweed is a rougher, more textured woollen cloth, woven for hard wear and for weather. A tweed gilet is the classic country gilet: sturdy, characterful and made to last. The weave often combines several colours, which is why a good tweed goes with so much else in your wardrobe.

Which tweeds do you use?

Harris Tweed from Carloway Mill on the Isle of Lewis; Lovat tweed woven in Hawick in the Scottish Borders; and an ever-changing array of Yorkshire tweeds. Each has its own character, so it is worth spending good time looking at our cloth pages.

What makes Harris Tweed different?

Harris Tweed has a legal definition: it must be handwoven by islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides. That is why genuine Harris Tweed carries the Orb mark, and it is why it is prized for its durability and colour.

We particularly prize Harris Tweed because of the rich variety of colours and the warmth of the thick tweed fabric.

Should I choose flannel or tweed?

Choose flannel for a smarter, smoother, softer gilet that sits neatly under a jacket or over a fine shirt – for wearing in the evening or about Town. Choose tweed for texture, warmth, character and a more rugged country look. Both are wool and both are warm. Tweed is the more hard-wearing of the two, and flannel is the more refined.

Are wool gilets warm? Are they waterproof?

Wool is naturally warm and breathable, so a flannel or tweed gilet keeps your core warm without the bulk of padding. A good tweed has water-resistant properties – but if it’s a downpour, get a waterproof!

When would I wear a gilet?

Can I wear a gilet to work?

Yes, and it is one of the best reasons to own one. If you work from home, it will keep you warm and smarten you up. If you work in an office it’s a fantastic way of smartening up your look while remaining comfortable. A tailored gilet in flannel or fine tweed worn over a long-sleeved shirt looks sharp in an office or at a client meeting, and it is easy to move, type, gesture and present in – far more so than a jacket!

Is a gilet good for keeping warm?

Yes, absolutely. Your core is the part of you that matters most when it comes to keeping warm. What is more, by warming this part you leave your arms free to do things. For real warmth always go for wool – its insulating properties are unsurpassed. For something in between, our cotton corduroys and moleskins will also add some heat. In short, these winter waistcoats are ideal for cool mornings, draughty houses or offices, autumn and early spring, and as an extra layer under a coat in winter.

Can I wear a gilet outside?

Yes. A tweed waistcoat is a traditional outdoor garment, in the spirit of a country or shooting gilet, suited to walking, the garden, the pub and country days out. It is warm and hard-wearing but not waterproof, so pair it with a waterproof coat in wet weather.

What about smart or formal occasions?

Everything will depend on the event in question and its particular dress code – but in general a Weskit gilet in tweed, silk matka or linen will take you to the office, shooting, a race day (not Royal Ascot), dinner, lunch and more. Wear it over a long-sleeved shirt or jumper, with or without a jacket.

Can I wear a gilet in summer?

A linen or silk matka gilet is lighter and works well in warmer weather. We recommend wearing it over a long-sleeved shirt. Roll up the sleeves if you like.

How to wear a gilet

What should I wear under a gilet?

Always long sleeves. A gilet is designed to be worn over a long-sleeved layer, so the sleeve gives the garment its shape and balance. The two best options are a long-sleeved shirt and a roll neck jumper.

How do I wear a gilet over a shirt?

Wear it over a long-sleeved shirt, buttoned up with a tie, or open at the neck for a more relaxed look. A brushed cotton shirt will sit well under a tweed gilet, adding a layer of warmth, and we would suggest a crisper shirt for flannel. For summer – pure cotton or linen.

How do I wear a gilet with a roll neck jumper?

A fine-knit roll neck under a gilet is a neat, warm combination for autumn and winter. Choose a slim roll neck in merino or cashmere so the gilet sits smoothly over it, in a plain colour such as navy, charcoal, cream or black. Tweed over a roll neck looks relaxed; flannel over a roll neck looks refined.

If you want to wear your gilet over a thick tweed jumper, you will need to size up.

Can I wear a gilet with short sleeves?

We would always recommend long sleeves. A gilet worn over a short-sleeved top looks unfinished. If it is hot, wear a long-sleeved linen or cotton shirt with the sleeves rolled up.

What do I wear with a gilet on the bottom half?

For tweed, jeans, cords or wool trousers. For flannel, tailored trousers or a skirt. For linen and silk matka, summer trousers, chinos or a dress. Because our gilets are tailored rather than padded, they also layer neatly under a coat or cape.

Caring for your gilet

How do I clean a Weskit gilet?

All Weskit gilets and waistcoats should be dry cleaned. Please do not machine wash or hand wash them.

Why do Weskit gilets have to be dry cleaned?

For two reasons: the cloth and the tailoring. Depending on the cloth, it may lose its shape, change in handle or shrink when washed in water. More to the point though, our gilets are tailored, not casual garments. Their shape comes from careful construction, and tailoring is never washed. Dry cleaning protects both the cloth and the fit.

Do I need to dry clean it after every wear?

No. Always hang your gilet after wearing it, to keep its shape. Between wears, air your gilet on a hanger in a well-ventilated room, brush it with a soft clothes brush to lift dust and surface dirt, and sponge any small marks lightly with a clean damp cloth. Dry clean only when it really needs it, such as at the end of the season or after heavier soiling. Over-cleaning shortens the life of tailored wool.

We suggest hanging our linen and silk matka gilets in the bathroom or steaming them when needed.

How should I store my gilet?

Hang it on a well-shaped hanger, give it room, and keep it somewhere dry and airy. Always make sure you have protected against moths.

Women’s and men’s gilets

Do you make women’s gilets?

Yes. We make two women’s cuts in sizes 6 to 24, as ready to wear, made to order and bespoke.

Do you make men’s gilets and waistcoats?

Yes. We make two men’s cuts in sizes 36 to 54, also in ready to wear, made to order and bespoke.

Which size should I order?

Please see our size guide. If you are between sizes or want a different fit, our made to order and bespoke options let you adapt the gilet to your measurements. Any doubts on size? Please don’t hesitate to call us.

Ordering: ready to wear, made to order and bespoke

What is the difference between ready to wear, made to order and bespoke?

Weskit’s ready to wear gilets are made and ready to ship. We carry limited stock, but a huge variety of fabrics and a choice of cuts, collars and linings. Using our made to order service you are able to select the exact size, cut, cloth, collar, lining and buttons of your choice. Our made to order service takes two to three weeks.

Bespoke gilets are adapted from those offered on the website. You might want a contrasting collar and pocket welts, you might need yours cutting a little longer or shorter than usual; you might need it expanded at the girth or taken in at the chest. All this we can do.

Can I order a bespoke gilet?

Yes. Get in touch to talk through cloth, cut and fit.

Can I choose the lining?

Yes – we offer striped cotton ticking lining as standard, but also offer viscose-lined waistcoats and silk linings. See our linings for the options.

Is a gilet suitable for a wedding or formal occasion?

That depends. A tailored gilet can pass muster at a wedding – but best check with your host.

Delivery and visiting us

Do you offer free delivery?

We offer free shipping on orders over £400. See our shipping page for full details.

Can I see the gilets in person?

Yes, we’d love to. Our shop is at 16 Cross Street, Abergavenny, Wales, which we share with our parent brand, EdNerat. See our shop page for opening times. We also occasionally attend shows and you can generally find us at the Hay Festival, Chalke Valley History Festival, Burghley Horse Trials and Cornbury House Horse Trials.

How does Weskit relate to EdNerat?

Weskit began with the offcuts from EdNerat, the independent family-owned maker of handmade British coats and womenswear. We carry the same commitment to making well, in Britain, generating as little waste as possible.

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